Fly Fishing For Carp – Carp Fly Fishing To The Extreme
Fly Fishing For Carp – Carp Fly Fishing To The Extreme
Anglers or potential anglers mostly associate fly fishing with trout or salmon, but there are many more varieties of fish which can be caught with flies, even deep-sea saltwater fish! Carp fly fishing is different and there is nothing ordinary or average about the fish itself, so there is nothing average or ordinary about fly fishing for carp.
The tackle has to be right and as this type of fishing is about spotting the carp and making an accurate cast, the rod used is incredibly important. Anglers have to cast for this fish from 3 to 15 meters away. They have to be fast and they have to be accurate, and the rod has to be just right too.
Experts recommend that a 6 ‘ 8 weight, 8′6′ to 9′ graphite rod be used. This rod should have a good deal of backbone in the but and a medium tip. If the water is very snaggy and the fish are traditionally large (16 to 25lbs) the 9′ would be a better choice.
If the rod is too hard, the casting action is not as accurate and if it is too soft, it won’t bear the weight or the dirty tricks which a hooked carp can get up to. They are dirty fighters, and this is one of the reasons why fishing for carp is so popular.
Bigger; exposed rim reels are better for these dirty fighters and your reel will receive a workout. The reel should have disk drags and at least 150 meters of backing capacity, there may come a time when fly fishing for carp, that you will use the reel’s entire capacity!
The line should be 20 lb or 9 kilogram Micron or Dacron, and again if there are a lot of snags in the water you are fishing, this can be increased up to 30 pounds. Use about nine feet of tapered leader with a 10lb tip, and an additional length of tippet. In terms of flies they are insect eaters and will take woolly buggers (in all color variations), white caddis grubs, muddler minnows, skinny buzzers, Daves Hoppers and many more.
Because this sport is about spotting the fish and casting accurately in its direction, it is necessary to have a great pair of polarized sunglasses. No fisherman of any kind can spot carp in water the with the sun glaring off it at full blast and it is only polarized lenses which can avoid this glare. Most carp fishermen prefer the amber or brown lens variety as they are able to increase contrast as well as block out glare.
Fly Fishing For Beginners Lesson And 101 Fly Fishing Tips
Fly Fishing For Beginners Lesson And 101 Fly Fishing Tips
Fly fishing for beginners can be an immensely rewarding sport but when you don’t know anything it can be a really daunting experience trying to figure out what you’re doing. Here is a great beginner fly fishing lesson that every beginner should read. We will cover some information about equipment selection, flies and even some casting techniques.
Basic Equipment:
The easiest way to get the rod and line balanced with the correct line weights and a good feel from the weight of the reel is to buy a package. There are a lot of great packages out there that include everything you need including a well balanced rod and reel with line. Also buying them as a package can be cheaper then buying them individually.
Next of fly fishing for beginners is you need a leader and tippet. They connect the fly back to the fly line. The leader is around eight to nine feet long and is tapered so that the end closest to the fly and the targeted fish is at its thinnest so it’s undetectable. The tippet is the thin bit of line that attaches to the fly. The tippet is used as buffer between the leader and the fly so it can be cut every time the fly needs to be swapped out.
To keep protected when standing in the river or lake, you will need some waders and wading boots. These keep you warm and dry from the water, whether and give great grip when walking over slippery stones. A great thing to wear with your waders is a fishing vest, they come in very handy for carrying all your things like flies, leaders and tippets, line clippers and of course your fishing permit. When in warmer whether I usually like to just wear shoes and shorts while standing in the river, its very refreshing and help keeps you cool.
Choosing Flies:
Fly Fishing for beginners can be over whelmed by the thousands of different flies out there, From Wet flies and dry flies that mimic insects below and above the water, right through to streamers that represent small fish. The best way to know what fly’s to try, is visit your local fly fishing shop. They will know what fish are feeding on in your area and season.
Casting:
I will give you some pointers of what to expect for casting but nothing can replace getting out there and practicing. Fly fishing schools are invaluable for learning proper fly fishing technique. If you don’t want to spend the cash on a lesson then check out some videos online.
There are two major fly fishing for beginners techniques you should learn first. The overhead cast which is the fundamental cast that I too learnt first. You lift your line up off the water in front of you, bring it over your head and behind you, then cast if forward again. It takes practice and skills to land the fly in the place you want it.
The roll cast is simple and highly effective in windy conditions and when there are obstructions around so you are unable to use an overhead cast. Your line should be tight in the water, and then you lift the rod vertically up to a point just behind your ear and do a forward cast. This makes the line do a loop and land in the place you point your rod to.
With this basic information you should have enough info to go to your local fly fishing shop to get everything you need and start practicing a couple of casts on the water or in the back yard.
Grab our free 101 fly fishing tips ebook now simply by filling in the form on the top right corner. Too Easy!
River Trout Fishing Tips
River Trout Fishing Tips
Here we have six river trout fishing tips for fly fishing beginners and above, obviously aimed towards river trout fishing but some are also suitable for lakes. Take a look then check out our guide to the top fly fishing books.
Use a Floating Line
With so many types of different fly lines and characteristics its hard to choose which one is best. As a beginner I would recommend the weight forward floating line as its by far the easiest to manipulate.
Dry Fly or Wet Fly?
Our secound river trout fishing tip is knowing what fly to use, Dry or Wet is simple. If you see splashes on top of the water then the trout are feeding on the surface and you will use a dry fly. If you dont see any rises of the fish then try a wet fly.
When to Change your Fly
one of the trout fishing tips you need to know about changing your fly is some times it just comes down to the day, temperature of the water and oxygen level for how interested a trout is in to feeding. So if you are not having luck on a fly leave keep at it for at least 20 minutes. Just because a trout was not interested in a fly one day still feel free to try it on another as there food sources change through out the year.
Learn to Read the River
90% of trout are actually only in 10% of the water. Learn to identify trout lies in the different areas of the river. You will have a lot more luck when blind fishing if you present your lure or fly where the trout are most likely looking for food.
Cast on an Angle
Another great river trut fishing tip is, it is good practice when fly fishing, to cast upstream on an angle. This is so that only your fly moves down stream above the trout. If you are casting upstream from directly below your intended path then your line and leader will be passing directly over the fish, often the fish will get spooked from either seeing the line or the shadow it projects.
Trout like it Cold
The last of the river trout fishing tips is when targeting trout in the summer it’s a great idea to look for cooler water. A couple of places to find cooler water is at the bottom of deep pools or where tributaries bringing in cooler water join the river. In lakes often where the river flows into the lake.
Use these great river trout fishing tips next time you’re out on the river and you may find your next strike will be easier to get.
Fly Fishing – Reading The River Part2
Reading the river is very important, no matter how many trout fishing guides you read on techniques they will be useless if your not targeting where the fish are hiding.
So let’s just quickly recap on what we covered last time. Fresh water fish are very smart, they know that its hard work trying to stay in the fast water to eat the smorgasbord of food whizzing by so seek shelter from the current in spots that are still close to the food source so that they can zip out and grab a passing meal. They also do a very good job of hiding from predators, by keeping concealed.
Now we can cover off some more of the great spots to find trout and bass.
Undercut Banks and Overhanging vegetation; Where the bank has washed away but the top has been left due to being held together by grass and other vegetation. This makes an excellent spot for trout and bass. They have protection from the sun and predators with the ability to dart out into the current to get food. Over hanging vegetation is also a great for offering shelter from predators. But they both have the added bonus that often small insect’s fall into the water off the grass banks and over hanging vegetation so fish love these spots.
Pools; These are large areas of the river or stream where the water is slower and deeper. Pools are often found after riffles. Fish often sit at the head of the pool and feed of food coming in from the riffle or faster moving water. Fish also like to sit at the tail of the pool as they can remain on the bottom and still pick off hatching insects flowing over head. They also sit in the middle of the pool where it is deep and are invisible to over head prey but typically to rest so typically not worth trying to fish as it’s hard to get your wet fly or nymph down deep enough and typically they are not to interested.
Riffles; are the shallower fast moving areas of the river or stream. These are often good to try as the fish that are in there are only there for one reason, too feed; they are not there to rest or hide from predators. Also fish are smart; you need to match what they are feeding on very closely but in a riffle they don’t have time to do their usual quality assurance checks.
Tributaries; These small streams that join the river often bring in cooler water and as mentioned in part 1, offer current seems. These are often great to fish in the warmer months as fish like to gather in the cooler water intake when the main river warms.
A lot of these spots may not be easy to see as large rocks, tree logs and other obstructions that offer protection from the current can be fully submerged. A simple tip is when the river is low and clear, go out and do some recon. Make notes on locations so that when the river is back up or unclear you know exactly where to fish.
So next time you go fly fishing use what you learnt, increase your chances of getting that strike by fishing areas that commonly hold the fish.
Fly Fishing Lesson – Reading The River Part1
This article gives fly fishing beginners some good basics on where fish typically hold in rivers and streams. Reading a river or stream is a very good fly fishing lesson all beginners must learn to be effective.
When I started to learn fly fishing, a good friend once told me that 90% of the fish are in 10% of the water. This has always stuck with me. If there are no fish where you are presenting your fly, then you’re going to have a difficult time trying to catch them. All good anglers fish the spots that fish are likely hiding in.
In small streams and shallow rivers you may be able to fish by sight which is a whole different ball game. But in a lot of the rivers and streams you cannot see the fish so you need to look for where the fish will be.
Fish in rivers and streams have two primary instincts. 1) Find shelter from predators and the current. 2) Maximizing their feeding ability.
Everything the trout and bass or typically any territorial fresh water fish does is based on the above two principals.
That being said, fish are smart, they know that the fast moving current brings more food like a conveyor belt, but they also know there is a cost, that it’s a lot of energy to stay in the fast moving water. So they try to seek shelter from the fast moving current in various places we will cover but still ready to enter the fast moving water for a quick meal.
Trout and bass also seek concealment so that they do not become a quick meal themselves. They hide in places that are often difficult to reach like under a bank, at the bottom of a hole, behind a rock in white water or under an overhanging tree branch.
Because of this constant balancing act between being with the food source and being concealed from predators while at the same time not having to work too hard for it. Because of this the logical places to start looking is where there are current changes; places where trout can dwell in slow water but still have easy access to fast moving water that they can quickly move into, grab a light snack and return to their spot.
Here is a list of a bunch of the best spots for finding bass and trout.
Rocks; are great places for fish, a good sized rock in the middle of the river or stream offers two places for fish to hold in. With medium to large rocks, behind the rock will be a sheltered spot that they sit in and wait for food flowing past on either side of the rock. The rock can be fully submerged and still offer this protection. Also in front of the rocks where the water hits and pauses for an instant before flowing to the side offers a dead zone or cushion of water that they like to also sit in and wait for food.
Current Seams; This is where to currents meet, often when a tributary or side channel enters a main stream. This is where fast current meets slow current and this offers the protection from the fast current they need while still having the fast current close by to harvest food from.
Look for our next article where we will continue exploring more hiding spots.
Fly Fishing Guide to Reels
This Fly Fishing guide is for every beginner fly fishing angler on the road to becoming a pro. Every angler has to purchase fly fishing reels ( it pays to have spare kit when your out on an excursion). Well if you don’t you’re going to have one horrible messy hand full of line. As a beginner fly fishing can be an expensive exercise, if you let it, but luckily here is where you can save a few bucks.
In comparison, between a fly fishing reel and say a bait casting reel used for salmon fishing. The bait caster has heaps of small moving parts that has to constantly cleaned and oiled but the fly reel has only really got two. There is the drag mechanism and the spool, because of this they are fairly easy to maintain and lasts a long time.
You can actually get a good quality real for a very low price due to the fact that they are of such simple design and construction.
Fly Reel Functionality and Design
Fly reels are small and round with a small handle attached directly to the spool. The spool is turned at a 1:1 ratio, meaning that there are no gears. Unlike spinning reels that can ratios up to and beyond 5:1 which means for every one turn of the handle, the spool actually spins around full circle five times. There is no requirement to retrieve your fly with such speed, and actually when you do want to get the slack in, in a hurry, you just pull directly on the line itself.
Don’t get me wrong the fly reel has one really important job. It’s the storage space for your line. It is a needed device but doesn’t really play much part in presenting your fly to the fish. You strip the line of the reel for that job.
Buying Tips
Get a reel that is strong and light weight, preferably if has the drag mechanism in its own sealed area so dust and grit can’t get in. You want it to be able to hold your fly line with plenty of backing for when you have that big fish on. You don’t need spent $400 on a fly reel, you can actually get some pretty descent reels for around $50, it won’t come with a life time guarantee but should last you for the years to come if you take care of it. One important note though. Make sure it’s not too heavy. You want it to be well balanced with your fly rod.
So when you are purchasing all your gear as a beginner, you can get some good fly fishing kits that have everything you need. Otherwise save the dollars on your reel and spend it on getting a real quality fly line or rod. It’s these pieces of your fly fishing outfit that do all the important work. Have a chat with your local fly fishing shop; they will know exactly what’s best for the fly fishing conditions in your area.
Fly Fishing Beginners Guide – Fly Fishing Line
As a fly fishing beginner, choosing the fly fishing line is one of the most important pieces of gear needed for fly fishing so read this fly fishing Since the flies are very small and light, we rely on the weight of the line and the transfer of energy to create an effective cast. This is a basic beginner fly fishing lesson on fly lines.
There is a hand full of different types of lines and before we cover them we need to know a bit about what the line is made up of.
The core of the line is like the chassis of a car, everything is built around it. It determines the lines flexibility, its stretch and its strength. The two basic types of cores are monofilament and multifilament. Monofilament cores typically stretch and flex less the multifilament cores which makes them cast further and tangle less. The problem with it is in cold weather is has a lot of memory which causes the line to coil and makes it difficult to cast. Typically when fishing cold water species you will use a multifilament core.
The coating is the plastic that manufactures cover the fly line core with. Typically PVC but manufactures blend this with other products to affect the lines stretch or even if it floats or sinks.
The taper is the lines varying thickness. The different tapers have variations of thickness in different parts of the line. The variation in mass along the line affects how it will perform in varying conditions. For example, if you want to cast a large fly then you will need most of the weight at the front of the line behind the fly to get the distance but with the extra mass it will make a stealthy presentation on flat water difficult.
The two major types of tapers are the double taper and the weight forward taper. The double taper are sufficient for most close to medium range situations but have lost preference in recent times due to the fact they are not the best lines for long distance casting.
The weight forward tapers as you could imagine have the majority of the mass at the front of the line and the rear of the taper is thin making it shoot through the guides with ease giving longer casting distances. There is another taper called the Shooting taper which is a more dramatic version of the weighted forward, with more weight at the front and less gradual transition from a thick to thin diameter.
When it comes to color I would recommend a brightly colored line as you can see it easier. This makes refining your cast easier and the detection of strikes. Trout can see color but it’s far less important than controlling your presentation of the fly or the shadow of a moving line.
As a beginner then you should most likely go for a general purpose floating weighted forward line. That will meet the needs of any beginner angler and can be used for dry-fly, nymphing and streamers.
Also a simple tip, make sure you replace your line when it starts to wear out, once it loses its buoyancy or slickness. You don’t need to make it harder for yourself by using a worn out fly line.
Fly Fishing Lesson on Fly Fishing Rods
So you have decided to begin fly fishing. Something all fly fishing beginners must do is read a fly fishing lesson on fly fishing rods.
The few main characteristic of a rod are length, line weight, and pieces. You can find this information printed on the rod typically near the grip.
When it comes to length, most rods range from 7 to 10 feet long. There are rods outside of this range but they typically are for a specialized purpose and not for a beginner. But as you grow in knowledge and experience then by all means give them ago. The longer rods give more control over the line, it is easier to lift the line out of the water and reposition it. However longer rods do have a few draw backs. The longer they are, the heavier they typically become, and also you are more likely to catch it on shrubs and overhanging branches.
When it comes to line weight, fly lines come in weights from 0 to 15, and the fly rods are created to match the line. A 6 weight rod is designed for a 6 weight line. You may hear of fly fisherman using a heavier or lighter line then his rod is rated but as a beginner it’s important that these match.
There are a few reasons why the line weight is important. A larger weight rod is typically stiffer and a more effective tool for landing large fish, also since the line is heavier it can cast our larger flies, further and it does help when combating wind. This also comes with a cost, as the line and rod is heavier then lighter rated variants, it’s more of a physical challenge to be casting it all day long. Not to mention is makes it more difficult for a stealthy cast as its lands heavier on the water and can spook fish in calm conditions.
For a beginner the best all round weight is a 5 weight. It’s good in still waters and medium to large rivers. It has the power to cast your fly on a windy river but still enough finesse for the smaller flies and spooky trout. But the best resource when making your decision is your local fly fishing shop, they will know the conditions and the waters in your surrounding areas. In fact I used to go into the local tackle shop when I was starting out and buy something cheap, just to pick the brains of the local experts.
Rod Pieces. 15 years ago most rods came in two pieces, there were 4 piece rods for their compact size but were not preferred due to all the joins created dead spots. Over the years the material and construction has improved that most experts agree that the 4 piece models cast just as well as their 2 piece predecessors. And with the added versatility of being compact some manufactures no longer produce 2 piece rods.
Now as a beginner I wouldn’t go and break the bank on a $700 rod, there are plenty of good entry level rods for around $150-$250. They won’t be as light as a premium rod or have the workmanship with exotic hardwood inserts and titanium guides but they will be great to learn on and will land fish. When you really get the feel for things and have found your perfect rod weight and length, then invest in a premium rod and keep your beginner rod as a spare.
One of the best ways to select a rod that feels right for you is to find a local fly fishing school, you will get to try different rods while learning to cast. Otherwise most local tackle stores will let you have a few swings.
